Metering My Magic... a little alliteration

[Digita1B0B]

Just got back from our new place and was playing with my three new meters: the 5.0 UVA+B; the 6.0 UVB and the 7.0 MED/hr

I waited until the bed had been running for three minutes before checking and each meter was placed in the same spot, the absolute center of the bench acrylic... right about where someone's belt buckle would be if they wore one while tanning (which I don't recommend). Each meter was stood on end, sitting on the bench acrylic with sensor facing towards canopy.

Here are the numbers that I got:

5.0 UVA+B: 147.7
6.0 UVB: 2.5
7.0 MED/hr: 29.2

Someone translate please. I'm a meter newbie here. I do know that my wife went for about 6 minutes last night and was a little red this morning. Should I adjust the taps down to the lowest setting? There is less than one hour total on the lamps. I assume these numbers will drop, right? How quickly?

Steve, where are you? And please, speaka da English.

Bob

[coldgyn]

I believe your 5.0 should be closer to 170 although with new lamps that have not broke in maybe not. Do you have mug glass? The 2.5 UVB is what I was told they should have. The 7.0 I'm not sure.

[BIG AL]

Digital, what level are the lamps set on? On level 2 (there are 8 levels) the 5.0 should read about 130 and the uvb should be about 1.6 with the mugg 6 glass. 2.5 for uvb is too high. I don't have a 7.0 .

[Digita1B0B]

I'll have to double check, but I believe all lamps are at 2 except facials which are at 3.

Bob

[solarmeter®]

5.0 UVA+B: 147.7
6.0 UVB: 2.5
7.0 MED/hr: 29.2

Bob.... those are great readings. Sorry I don't know what they "should" be at various tap settings. But:

147.7 is a goodly amount of browning rays at belt buckle position.

2.5 UVB / 147.7 = 1.7% B which sounds typical for MUG6. The old glass was around 0.9-1.1% B as I recall.

240 / 29.2 MED/hr = 8.2 MIN Te Max session.... which sounds too short to me. The taps should be set down so Te calculates near the labeled Te (12 MIN ??). Then as the lamps age you can set them up to recover lost MED/hr.

If the label says 12 MIN Te... then 240 / 20 = 12. So you should set the taps down until the 7.0 reads ~20.0 MED/hr. If they won't go that low... because the lamps are brand spanking new... then just adjust your exposure schedules down accordingly. Check again when the lamps break in after ~30 hours. Then keep track of the readings over time... so you can jack up the taps down the road.

I'm not supprised your wife got pink in 6 minutes!

Note: Don't get concerned about the 5.0 readings being too high (someone said 130) or too low (someone said 170). Those are primarily the UVA browning rays. The MED/hr is more important relative to not burning anyone. Remember... new white tanners should start out at only 3/4 MED. 45 / MED per hour reading = initial session time of 0.75 MED fyi.

[Miraclesun]

What is your voltage tap set on the secondary side? 380 or 400 V. if it's on 400 v. move this to 380 V. But of course turn your main breaker off first. You also have 250 setting's on your RST levels, call Matthias and he can walk you through what these should be set on for fresh lamps. You may be ok on everything, maybe your UVB will come down some after your lamps break in.

Al

[Digita1B0B]

Steve, Al and all,

Thanks everyone. Al, would I want my UVB to come down? Is 1.7 too high for HP? I was thinking that sounded fine, but admitedly I'm brand new.

Bob

[Digita1B0B]

Originally Posted by BIG AL

Digital, what level are the lamps set on? On level 2 (there are 8 levels) the 5.0 should read about 130 and the uvb should be about 1.6 with the mugg 6 glass. 2.5 for uvb is too high. I don't have a 7.0 .

Initially, I thought that the 2.5 UVB was the percent, too. But it indicates that 2.5 mW/cm2 of the total 147.7 mW/cm2 is UVB so there is 145.2 mW/cm2 of UVA.

See, I'm learning. You CAN teach an old dog...

Bob

[BIG AL]

It should be about 1.6 1.7 is fine. I was thinking it was 2.5 uvb and not the meter reading of 2.5. When Tim set up my first Magic, he set it to about 130 and that is where I try to keep it. It will read a little high for the first 50 or so hours until the lamps break in.

[solarmeter®]

Aren't UV numbers fun?

Just don't wear a pocket protector in your shirt pocket...

Inside the Model 6.0 genuine leather case, there is a little "note" telling how to calculate percent UVB. It is folded inside the NIST traceable calibration certificate. I suppose most customers never look at them.

At least you didn't try to scrape off the fake decimal point etched into the LCD haha.

[Digita1B0B]

It says my genuine leather case is made in India... does that mean that I've got somebody's god wrapped around my 6.0? All this for only MSRP $169?!

Steve,

One more question: my 5.0 has an "As Shipped Reading" of 4.5 at 4.5 mW/cm2, and my 6.0 has an "As Shipped Reading" of 0.35 at 0.35 mW/cm2 which makes me think they're dead on accurate, but my 7.0 has an "As Shipped Reading" of 2.7 at 2.0 MED/hr.... what gives? Why is it off by so much... is that normal variance for the 7.0? I thought we was bros.

Bob

[solarmeter®]

Excellent question! You are the first regular person to ever notice that.

The 7.0 "master" meter is calibrated based on CIE MEDs of 210 J/m² Eeff per MED... because that is the world consensus of how much EAS weighted UV energy makes a minimal erythemal dose.

So when people in EU buy one, the certificate says at 2.0 the as shipped reading is 2.0.

However, the US FDA uses a smaller fake MED of 156 J/m², so the 7.0 meter has to be calibrated to read proportionatly higher. IE. 156 : 210 is same ratio as 2.0 : 2.7. Get it? If you do you are too smart to be a salon owner (JUST kidding)!

In AU the situation is reversed. They declare a MED to be 250 J/m² so the 7.0 meter has to be set lower. But they only allow ONE big MED wheras FDA allows FOUR baby MEDs as max session.

Plain English: Don't worry; be happy... your 7.0 meter is dead on.

There - now go buy a pocket protector at Office Max and a thin dark tie at JCPenny's.



As for the leather cases from India... only Hindus worship cows. The leather company is owned by non-Hindus. Besides they are probably goat leather. Enjoy them while they last because I am re-sourcing the cases to China next time... in vinyl... at half the cost.

About the only meter part still made in America is the gray plastic box. Tsk-tsk.

[Digita1B0B]

Steve,

Thanks for the explanation. Believe it or not, I did follow the math.

A/B ?/D

D*A/B=?

Maybe I do deserve a pocket protector. Do you know any Hindu goat herders that can make me a nice Indian leather one? Now that would be sweet.

Bob

[Natureboy]

147 on the 5.0 in the center is way too hot. Clients will get heat rash, burn and complain. I recommend it be around 130 maximum. Otherwise you will have clients do it once and say "it's too hot, I don't like that bed".

Even if the lamps are new, you can turn it down and ajust it every week. It sound like it is on setting two with the new lamps. Put it down to one, maybe leave the face one on two or three.

Mind you, I am not sure if yours is the newer Magic with different lamps. Mine are with all the 1200's.

[Jones]

Natureboy is correct. Set all lamps at 1...the installer doesnt care if you fry someone...please set them down!

[Alan @ TanToday]

You got one hellofa tanning beast ready for your new opening.

I wish you nothing but loads of success!

[Din]

Start the lamp level at 1...every 100-125 hours bump it up to next level. After doing that every 100-125hours you would have gone through all 8 levels and used your lamps up to 800-1000 hours.

What voltage do you have going to the beds? 240V?

[certan]

"5.0 UVA+B: 147.7"

Is that at the Body or at the Lamp???????????

[Din]

He said at the belt buckle.....which is at the body. He didn't hold it up to the lamp. He held it at the body/acrylic.

[Rob]

If that were at the lamp, it would zeroout the meter. It only goes to 199. My ultrabronz 818 goes beyond the 199 on new lamps at the lamp, I sure as hell would hope a new Magic would do the same at the lamp.