Electrical,Air Conditioning,and Build Out Questions Here

[RR@TT]

Use this forum for all these related questions!

[OasisTan]

I am about to start my build out. What are the most important things to have done? Where can I trim costs? What do I watch out for?

[Alan @ TanToday]

Originally Posted by OasisTan

I am about to start my build out. What are the most important things to have done? Where can I trim costs? What do I watch out for?

Make sure your contractor knows what he/she is doing. Make sure all permits are obtained BEFORE you start. Have it all layed out before they start. Changing things midstream will cost you a small fortune.

[RR@TT]

Modular walls will allow you to change room sizes due to the oncoming larger bed sizes being used. Three phase electrical (208) using boosters will help keep your electrical cost down.Make sure you have over and "WAY ABOVE" THE AMOUNT OF amps you will start out with--as in the future you will more than likely use them. High ceilings or exhausts in the attic will releive the rooms of heat buildup and beds that require their heat to be exhausted into the attic. One to two tons of air per bed(check with whom you purchase your beds) + air for the other areas of the salon. Try to keep the tanning salon theme in the reception area ,NOT AN ART GALLERY.

[RTD]

In retail it is location, location, location.....
In build out it is ELECTRICS, ELECTRICS, ELECTRICS.
Everything circles around your electricial power. Do it wrong and you will pay over and over again.
It might cost + or - 100.00 to have another contractor look over your electrical plan, and it might
be that they say it is perfect. But if I had to start again, I would include this in my budget.

[missmojorising]

I'm going round with this topic sooner than I expected--I'm moving (God help us)--Flooring is a big issue this time..Screw the VCT crap--worst stuff I could have ever picked for a tanning bed salon.

[RR@TT]

Originally Posted by missmojorising

I'm going round with this topic sooner than I expected--I'm moving (God help us)--Flooring is a big issue this time..Screw the VCT crap--worst stuff I could have ever picked for a tanning bed salon.

Hmmm...what is VCT for dummies? I have no clue...

[missmojorising]

All you ever wanted to know about VCT-----



http://www.shp.com/insite/insights.html



In many school and university facilities, high- traffic and classroom floors are covered in some form of tile. What’s the best type of tile for each application? What are some tips for maintaining flooring surfaces that will be trampled on by hundreds of feet wearing everything from clunky Doc Martens to pointy high-heels? Lucinda Kilpatrick, ASID, is the vice president of interior design at Steed Hammond Paul. From vinyl composition tile (VCT) to hardwood, quarry tile, terrazzo and everything in between, Kilpatrick has seen it and specified it. We recently talked tile with her, and here are her thoughts.

What's the best tile product for my building?
That isn’t an easy question to answer. It depends on many factors, including where it will be used and what furniture will be placed on it. Clients usually give us a good idea of what has worked for them in the past or what different products they are willing to try in a new building. Terrazzo is a timeless finish that most clients are familiar with and often desire, but it is costly and often not possible in today’s budgets. Recently we used linoleum—at a client’s request—in an elementary school. Some clients are interested in trying other products such as rubber flooring or quartz tile. However, VCT is the typical finish in classroom facilities because it is cost-effective, provides many color options and is durable. In specialty rooms, we may use a combination of carpeting and tile. While in lab spaces an impermeable surface that is resistant to chemicals, stains and abrasions is more typical.

What is VCT tile?
VCT is a product made mostly of limestone but contains plasticizers and other bonding agents. The color in the tile is “through pattern,” which means it runs through each portion of tile, lengthening its life. It’s considered a resilient flooring material—designed to retain its shape after having weight placed on it. VCT replaced a tile that contained asbestos (VAT) that was discontinued in 1980. VCT tile is softer than the VAT still on floors in many older school buildings. It holds color and conforms better to substrates than VAT, but may perform differently.

How well does this tile resist denting?
The industry standard requires tile be able to withstand 50-psi of pressure without causing a permanent indentation in the flooring. We take special care to ensure furniture used on the flooring has footers designed to distribute weight evenly and won’t mar the surface. Sometimes our efforts are hampered when students lean back in chairs, or when folding cafeteria tables are pushed down too hard onto the floor from the raised position.

What about black marks?
Black marks caused by foot traffic or chairs and tables sliding across a floor are one of the biggest problems that a client faces with a VCT floor. They are fairly easily removed, but can be an ongoing problem. The combination of tile, wax type, method of application, furniture style, glide selection and maintenance schedule are all part of the equation. A floor will always have some black marks, but dealing with them effectively with proper maintenance will improve the overall appearance of the floor.

How long will it last?
Most VCT is warranted for five years, but we’ve seen it last 20 years or longer with proper maintenance.

What are some tile maintenance issues?
The key to long floor life is appropriate maintenance. This includes installing walk-off mats to pick up moisture and grit as people enter the building. These mats should be both on the outside and the inside of the entrance and be as wide as the doorway. Mats should also be cleaned regularly.

In addition to using mats, regular sweeping, mopping, cleaning and polishing of VCT flooring is essential. Sweeping and damp mopping should be done on a daily basis. For heavier soil, cleaning and scrubbing is necessary. Most manufacturers recommend using a non-stripping cleaning solution (properly diluted) and scrub- bing with a single disk or automatic floor machine. Be sure excess cleaning solution is removed from the floor.

And what about polish?
Polish is essential to protect a floor, improve its appearance and make it easier to maintain. Select a sealer with a high concentration of solids (16-22 percent). For most floors, a minimum of three to five coats of polish is required to protect the surface. Also, adequate drying time is required after each coat, with no more than four coats being applied at one time. Additional coats of polish should be applied as necessary to maintain the floor’s appearance. It is also important to apply the polish with a clean applicator. We have seen good success with the pad-style applicator rather than the traditional “mop” head.

Are sealers necessary?
Sealers, which are applied before any polish, can improve stain resistance and provide a base for polishes. Generally, two coats are sufficient to seal the floor, but always follow both the flooring and polish manufacturers’ recommendations.

What are some installation issues?
When installing VCT in a new facility, concrete floors must be completely dry before the tile can be installed. Tests for alkali and moisture should also be conducted prior to installing VCT. After installation, manufacturers recommend waiting 72 hours before exposing a floor to rolling loads (like cafeteria or book carts). This allows adhesives to bond and dry.

Where can I get more information?
Several manufacturers have installation and maintenance tips on their Web sites, including Armstrong (www.armstrong.com) and Mannington (www.mannington.com).

[RR@TT]

Why didn't it work out in the tanning salon?

[missmojorising]

Anything you try to use on it (besides water) screws up the wax job--then you pay (something around $300.00 at least twice a year) to have the wax dudes come---strip the old wax, clean it, re-wax and watch as you rub or mop the wax off using anything that will curb the fungusamongus that could spring up. Then there is the heat factor--sucks for this particular business. If budget allows this is my new floor.

http://www.armstrong.com/resflram/na...us31gglereslam

[RR@TT]

We had commercial grade carpet installed in 1990--and it still looks pretty good--does not hold heat either. We've had really no problem with it--and its cheap--comes in a few colors--ours in a marine looking blue. Just a suggestion.

[missmojorising]

I don't get to have carpet--it's a Texas Regulation.

[RR@TT]

tile and linoleum and all that stuff comes from the oil industury---- I can understand thats why you are not allowed to have carpet--no matter what lies they tell you.

[missmojorising]

the government dosen't lie do they?--at least not on purpose right?

[RR@TT]

I think its called "beating around the Bush or maybe Bushes" hmmm...that name sounds familiar....the more he lowers our taxes...the higher gas prices seem to get...thats not funny... He tries anyway.....I think. I better stop,there's prob. a rep. here hiding in the bushes....lol..lol...

[HTElectrical]

Originally Posted by RR@TT

High ceilings or exhausts in the attic will releive the rooms of heat buildup and beds that require their heat to be exhausted into the attic.

I disagree about the high ceilings especially if you are in a hot climate. The high ceiling increases your cubic ft which in turn affects your AC cooling capacity. More Cubic ft = more air that needs to be cooled.

[Soo]

We have 12' ceilings in our salon...and also vent our a/c from the beds into the space between our ceiling and the roof...Dropped our bill over $250. the first month...

As for carpet vs tile...my Hubcap is a builder and too bad you can't have carpet as we have the commercial grade in our rooms and it cost about 2.99 a ft...from homee dee or lowes....hubcap glues it down and we use our little green bissell machine for anything major in the floor...cleans up in a snap...and if we need to change it...it's only about $100 a room or less...

Our spray room is made of tile on the floor and that board one would use in a bathroom for sidewalls in a mobile home...we clean that with our citrus cleaner ... and have to buy nothing extra in chemicals to clean that up either...we use a clorox wet/dry thingee for that...it costs about $12.00 and we also use it on our bathroom floor....

If you need any help please email me..I would be happy to help you in anyway...also any a/c or bed problems we may be able to walk you thru anything on the phone as well...

Have a great day!!! Soo

[HTElectrical]

Originally Posted by Soo

We have 12' ceilings in our salon...and also vent our a/c from the beds into the space between our ceiling and the roof...

You mean you exhaust your beds into the "drop ceiling" not vent your a/c into the drop ceiling.
What did you change that lowered your bill? I assume you mean you exhausted the beds into the drop ceiling instead of letting them exhaust into the salon. The best method is to exhaust them out of the building.
The 12' ceiling part only increases the volume of air that your AC is required to cool in comparison to having a 9' ceiling. I prefer to use a 12' ceiling in the lobby and then a 9' ceiling in the rear of the store. This gives you a spacious lobby and then a much lower volume of air in total. Also with the 9' ceiling you can use 10' walls in the rooms and you have 1' above the ceiling tiles in which to run your elec, venting (supply air for the high pressure beds to blow onto the cust.)

[RR@TT]

I think Soo is referring to the air conditioner built into the bed....exhausting its compressor heat (motor) into the attic.(like a portable AC.)

[HTElectrical]

I don't know which bed he would be referring to, but off the top of my head the beds I know that use an AC all exhaust the condensor out with the exhaust of the bed. Ergoline 650, 850, all of the UWE units, Dr Kern 5012 etc....